Importance Of Jewelry Hallmarks

A jewelry hallmark is the engraved stamp that is often found on authentic pieces of jewelry, denoting the weight of the metal used in producing that particular item. While it is a mark often found on pieces of jewelry, other items made of precious metals often also carry a hallmark to signify the quantity and quality of the metal used.

The jewelry hallmark on an item assumes extreme significance for the purchaser for several reasons:

To Judge Authenticity:
While jewelry hallmarks themselves can be faked or duplicated, and therefore do not provide an infallible testimony to the quality or authenticity of the articles on which they are embossed, they are often the easiest way to judge the age and genuineness of a particular item.

While there is no way to be absolutely sure about the dependability of such a hallmark, it is the closest one can get to a guarantee of quality and authenticity that remains with the item even if it’s passed from one owner to another. Through re-selling and alteration, the piece of jewelry can still retain the original hallmark that is embossed upon it upon being manufactured.

Indicative of Content:
For an individual looking to buy jewelry from a reputable jewelry store or reliable manufacturer, the hallmark is simply a way of determining the metal content of the piece since it indicated the constituency and sometimes age of the item. Since jewelry is often an investment on the part of the customer, the fact that the hallmark can provide an estimate of the content and therefore value of the item they are about to purchase, becomes extremely significant to the buyer.

On the part of the purchaser, it is simply a matter of turning the item over in order to check the hallmark, since it is usually stamped into the underside of a piece of jewelry.

Maker’s Mark:
Sometimes, though not always, pieces of jewelry also carry a mark or stamp of the manufacturer who produced it. More famous jewelry designers and artifact stores usually put their own symbol all hallmark on their items alongside the jewelry hallmark.

If you’re looking to buy jewelry by a particular designer or company, this stamp is also extremely important. Not only does it guarantee the quality of the item since the manufacturer is automatically responsible for any lapse, it also adds to the resale value of the piece, since it can be traced back to a reliable source.

Jewelry Dating:
The jewelry hallmark also helps date a particular piece of jewelry, and to place it in a historical context if it’s ancient. One can determine the time in which the item was crafted, by studying the jewelry hallmark on it. Although this takes expertise and a good eye, some people are experienced enough to place a piece of jewelry in terms of when it was produced, and by whom, simply by looking at the jewelry hallmark.

If you are looking to purchase jewelry from a particular period, the jewelry hallmark must be taken into account before you make your purchase, since it provides an insight into the history of the jewelry in question, aside from providing a guarantee of its authenticity.

Collecting Vintage Jewelry

As the gold market continues its strong performance, dancing around the $1,000-per-ounce mark, more collectors are turning to vintage jewelry to add a unique touch to their wardrobes. Vintage jewelry expert Jill Burgum of Heritage Auctions in Dallas, Texas, gives advice on how to make sure your money is well spent.

Q: What’s your best advice for beginning jewelry buyers and collectors?

A: My most common advice is don’t be afraid to ask questions, whether you are buying from reputable dealers or from shops. There is also a lot of information you can find online. The Internet is a great way to educate yourself. Also, don’t expect that a modern jewelry seller or store will know much about vintage or estate jewelry. They often don’t because it’s simply not their market.

Q: Does “antique, vintage or estate” jewelry mean lesser quality?

A: Not at all! The common thread among those terms is that the item is previously owned, and there is a lot of value in purchasing estate or previously owned jewelry. First, you can get great deals. The premium paid when purchasing a brand new piece at full retail price will not be transferred once that same item is resold. It’s an excellent way to purchase designer names at a fraction of the original price. Also, purchasing estate jewelry is a fantastic way to acquire pieces with “Old World” craftsmanship. This is a lost art. Production costs are prohibitive in today’s market, making it unrealistic from a cost perspective to do a lot of the precision handwork you can find in older pieces of jewelry. Purchasing estate jewelry is also a wonderful way to acquire platinum-set jewelry. Traditionally, platinum jewelry holds its value better than gold jewelry. And don’t forget that you can find diamonds at a fraction of what you would pay at a new jewelry retailer. The savings can be amazing, up to 75 percent.

Q: What’s the one thing you have to look for when buying vintage jewelry?

A: Condition, condition, condition! Don’t overlook damage such as missing prongs, bends and dents.

Q: Anything buyers should be especially wary of?

A: I’m always careful when selecting items that appear as Art Deco. Ask if they really are Art Deco or “Art Deco style” or “Art Deco reproduction.” There will be a significant difference in value and potential resale. You should also ask if the piece is original. Was it always a pendant-brooch or was it originally a brooch that someone altered to make it wearable as a pendant, too? Was the bangle watch originally an Art Deco watch that was later centered in a gold bangle? This is referred to as a “marriage,” meaning a combining of elements, and it affects the piece’s originality and value.

Q: Anything else?

A: Make sure what you are buying is what it is purported to be. Gold vs. gold-filled. Real vs. synthetic. Gemstones vs. glass. You don’t want to purchase a gold jewelry item without gemstones and think that it will go up in value. The gold market fluctuates on a daily basis, but typically not in big enough swings to where you can make money, especially if an item is acquired when the gold market is high.

Q: So how do you distinguish between a good piece and a not-so-good piece?

A: Make sure to check for the quality of craftsmanship, finish, gemstones and repair. Ask yourself if the item is nicely detailed with clean or crisp edges. Check closely to see if the piece displays serious wear. Are there dents or cracks? Are there any signs of repair? Sometimes, yellow gold solder has been used to repair platinum jewelry by unskilled bench jewelers. Definitely keep a keen eye out for signs of lead solder repairs on antique jewelry as this affects the piece’s value. In the case of a bracelet, is the construction stiff vs. flexible? The more flexible piece is better designed and manufactured. Is the piece scratchy? That is a sign of either a new piece or lesser quality of manufacture. If gemstones are involved, are the colors clear, bright and lively? Are they of medium color? Generally, more commercially made items have lighter gemstones of lesser quality, meaning mass production. For diamonds, check the quality. Avoid diamonds that look like snowballs or diamonds appearing like gravel due to heavy inclusions.

Q: What are some of the most collectible names in vintage jewelry and why?

A: There are too many to list, but there are a few “top of the top.” Some of the firms noted for their exquisite designs and craftsmanship include Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Mauboussin, and Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Their true vintage pieces, made prior to 1960 in Paris, command a premium. There are the rare designers, who are so exclusive that their pieces are unsigned, as in the case of JAR. Others produce limited quantities of very high-quality designs and to come across their works is the equivalent of finding treasures. These include Rene Boivin, Carven French, Pierre Sterle, and Janesich. Among contemporary names, Bvlgari, Harry Winston, Graff, and H. Stern all utilize the finest in both diamonds and colored gemstones.

Q: There seems to be controversy as to whether vintage jewelry is a good investment. What’s your take?

A: For the most part, not consider the majority of jewelry to be what most individuals would traditionally think of as a good investment. It typically isn’t high finance. Is it a money-maker on down the road? No. So why the interest or why should you purchase or care about vintage jewelry? Vintage jewelry, as with contemporary jewelry, is largely an emotional purchase. You have to ask: Does it make me feel good? Does the piece excite me? Do you get a visceral reaction or enjoyment? If the answer is yes, then that particular piece is a good investment in terms of the pleasure value. In my opinion, jewelry is meant to be worn and enjoyed. There is also the sentimental value factor that you attach to items. Was it the one-and-only engagement ring a woman wore? Was the item received for a special occasion such as the birth of a child, a birthday or a milestone? Or was the piece passed down through the generations of a family? Sentiment cannot be measured on the open market. It is entirely and uniquely personal.

Q: What if someone still wants to approach this as an investment?

A: To make a true financial investment, you may want to target designer name materials, because they have a better tendency to retain value or, in some instances, even increase in value. Or you may want to consider larger or higher quality diamonds or rare gemstones for investment purposes. Generally speaking, the items that will hold value are going to be beautifully executed and include fine diamonds or colored gemstones set in gold or platinum. As an aside, and would point out that there are far more pieces out in the marketplace that are unsigned vs. signed, but that should not be a negative factor or a reason to overlook them. Beautiful construction combined with fine materials will always be saleable and in demand.

AN EXPERT’S INSIGHTS
Noted vintage jewelry expert Jill Burgum, who received degrees in bench jewelry manufacturing from Bowman Tech and Stewart’s International and previously worked at Butterfield & Butterfield, offers these tips for today’s vintage jewelry market:

+ Trends: Jewelry follows fashion trends, even when looking at vintage and estate pieces. “Right now,” Burgum says, “1970s fashions are hot — so is yellow gold in textured forms. But be careful. The odds on nugget jewelry and rope chains coming back in style are not good.”

+ Quality: When establishing a jewelry wardrobe, look for timeless designs — a simple pair of moderately sized hoop earrings, three-stone rings, a tennis bracelet, diamond solitaire pendant, or stud earrings.

+ Care: Be aware of how you store your fine jewelry. “Don’t toss it into a jewelry box,” Burgum says. “Diamonds will scratch other gemstones as well as other diamonds.”

+ Upkeep: Keep your jewelry clean — it looks so much better, brighter and fresher. “Occasionally check to make sure stones are tight and not loose. Make sure your pearl necklaces do not have stretched silk cord — an indicator that they should be restrung before a potential loss or breakage occurs.”

+ Recycle: Keep in mind the “green factor” when looking at jewelry. If you have items that are (to you) outdated or damaged, turn it into cash that can be applied towards the purchase of something else you would like, or use the money to pay bills or take a trip. “The metal,” Burgum adds, “can also be melted and made into another item. Gemstones can be removed from one item and utilized in another. Be creative.”

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As the class structure in America changed, so did measures of actual wealth. Ladies in all social stations, even the working-class woman, could own a tiny piece of cheap jewelry. The average town & country woman could acquire & wear a substantial quantity of this mass-produced jewelry that was both affordable & stylish.

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